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C20-30 GLYCOL ISOSTEARATE.

Valuable CAS 251320-13-5 / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A sophisticated, high-molecular-weight ester that functions as a specialized emollient and texture-refining agent. It is engineered to provide a breathable protective barrier that locks in hydration while ensuring a non-greasy, elegant skin feel.

Emollient Skin Conditioning Pigment Dispersant Texture Enhancer

Science

This ingredient operates by creating a thin, breathable occlusive film over the stratum corneum, effectively trapping moisture within the skin layers to prevent dehydration. Its branched molecular structure allows for superior spreadability and a silky sensory profile compared to traditional linear esters, while also assisting in the uniform dispersion of pigments and UV filters.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical evaluation of long-chain isostearates demonstrates significant reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and measurable improvements in skin elasticity and surface smoothness.
  2. 02 48-hour occlusive patch testing at 3% concentration confirms zero signs of dermal irritation or sensitization.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.2%

As a functional emollient and texture enhancer, it is typically used between 0.5% and 5% to achieve its moisture-locking benefits. Concentrations below 0.2% may suggest its inclusion for marketing claims rather than physiological skin benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable in anhydrous systems and oil-in-water emulsions; exhibits excellent resistance to oxidation due to its saturated fatty acid chain.

Synergies

  • Mineral pigments
  • Chemical UV filters
  • High-viscosity emollients

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly acidic environments (pH < 4.0)
  • Strongly alkaline environments (pH > 8.0)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Its high molecular weight prevents deep skin penetration, making it exceptionally safe for surface-level conditioning without systemic absorption risks.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An excellent choice for barrier support and moisture retention that offers a refined, non-comedogenic finish for dry and sensitive skin types.


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