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Moumoujus

C20-24 ALKYL METHICONE.

Valuable CAS 200074-77-7 / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A sophisticated silicone-hydrocarbon hybrid wax that functions as a high-performance emollient and film-former. It provides a unique, velvety skin feel by bridging the gap between traditional waxes and lightweight silicones, ensuring superior spreadability without greasy residue.

Summary

Emollient Film-former Skin conditioning Viscosity controlling Texture enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

By integrating a long-chain C20-24 hydrocarbon with a silicone backbone, this ingredient creates a vapor-permeable, non-occlusive barrier. This film prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) while allowing the skin to 'breathe,' protecting the stratum corneum's lipid structure from environmental stressors.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–16%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical assessments confirm that concentrations of 1-5% significantly reduce moisture loss by forming a breathable protective shield.
  2. 02 Rabbit dermal irritation studies using 97% undiluted alkyl methicones demonstrated zero irritation, establishing a remarkably high safety ceiling for leave-on applications.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

While primarily a textural enhancer, its barrier-protection benefits are dose-dependent. Levels below 0.5% in 'barrier repair' products may indicate marketing-only inclusion, though even trace amounts can slightly improve product glide.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Chemically inert and highly resistant to oxidation. With a melting point between 30°C and 40°C, it is exceptionally stable across temperature fluctuations and ideal for hot-pour manufacturing.

Synergies

  • Lipid-replenishing ceramides
  • Mineral UV filters
  • Non-polar emollient oils

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly polar aqueous systems without proper emulsification
  • Certain paraffin waxes requiring high-shear blending

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
16%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel supports its safety in leave-on products up to 16%. It is not recommended for airbrush or inhaled applications due to insufficient respiratory data.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An excellent, non-comedogenic barrier support ingredient that enhances both the clinical efficacy and sensory elegance of precision skincare.

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References

Sources