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C20-22 ALCOHOLS.

Valuable CAS 90604-34-5 / BINDING, EMULSION STABILISING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A high-performance fatty alcohol used as a co-emulsifier to create sophisticated, skin-mimetic textures. It is specifically engineered to provide structural stability to creams while delivering a distinctive matte, powdery finish without the weight of traditional waxes.

Emulsion stabilizing Viscosity controlling Barrier repair Texture enhancing

Science

This long-chain fatty alcohol functions by organizing into lamellar (liquid crystal) structures that replicate the skin's natural lipid bilayer. This organization strengthens the epidermal barrier and facilitates a sustained release of hydration while providing significant water resistance and structural integrity to the formulation.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 2–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 30-day clinical evaluation of a 3% C20-22 blend demonstrated a significant reduction in skin roughness and visible wrinkle depth.
  2. 02 In vivo testing at 2% concentration showed a 48.6% increase in skin moisturization after one hour, with 34.2% retention maintained at the 24-hour mark.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because this ingredient is a structural co-emulsifier, it is typically used at functional levels (2-5%) to ensure emulsion stability; use below 1% is generally insufficient to achieve its clinical hydration or texture-modifying benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resilient across a wide pH range and salt-tolerant. Requires heating to 75-80°C during the oil phase for proper integration. Improves freeze-thaw stability of emulsions.

Synergies

  • C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate
  • Mineral UV Filters
  • Sericoside

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Classified by the CIR as a non-sensitizing, non-drying fatty alcohol with low toxicity when formulated correctly.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional structural ingredient that bridges the gap between high-stability formulation and clinical barrier support.


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