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C12-20 ALKYL GLUCOSIDE.

Valuable / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A high-performance, sugar-derived non-ionic emulsifier that bridges the gap between texture and treatment. It is engineered to create 'liquid crystal' emulsions that mirror the natural architecture of the skin's surface for superior biocompatibility.

emulsifying surfactant barrier-restructuring cleansing

Science

By forming a lamellar liquid crystal structure, this ingredient mimics the skin’s own lipid bilayer. This biomimetic arrangement strengthens the skin barrier, actively reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and serves as a delivery vehicle to improve the penetration of active ingredients.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.2–5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Concentrations between 1.0% and 5.0% demonstrated a significant increase in hydration levels ranging from +9.8% to +24.5% for up to 24 hours.
  2. 02 Low-dose applications (0.2-1.5%) maintained moisture and slowed TEWL for up to 5 hours by reinforcing the cellular lipid bilayer.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.2%
Red flag below
0.1%

While primarily a functional emulsifier, it provides measurable barrier benefits at levels as low as 0.2%. Using it below this threshold suggests it is being used solely for stabilization rather than its skin-conditioning properties.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 3 – 11
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits exceptional stability across a wide pH spectrum and maintains integrity in the presence of high electrolyte concentrations.

Synergies

  • Anionic surfactants
  • Cationic surfactants
  • Electrolyte-heavy actives

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel considers it non-irritating and safe for leave-on products up to a 5% concentration.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An excellent biomimetic emulsifier that provides significant hydration benefits while maintaining a low-irritation profile across all skin types.


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