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Moumoujus

C12-20 ACID PEG-8 ESTER.

Valuable CAS 68908-68-9 / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A high-performance, non-ionic emulsifying agent derived from a blend of C12-20 fatty acids. It is specifically engineered to create sophisticated oil-in-water emulsions that offer a refined, non-greasy skin feel while facilitating the transport of active molecules.

Summary

Emulsifying Surfactant Skin-conditioning Penetration enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions as a 'histophilic' or skin-compatible surfactant that lowers interfacial tension to stabilize complex formulations. Its unique structure possesses a high affinity for the skin's natural lipid matrix, allowing it to distribute active ingredients evenly across the stratum corneum and improve the dermal penetration of co-formulated actives.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 2–20%
Optimal

3.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 2008 clinical study utilized a 3.5% concentration as a delivery vehicle for Argireline, confirming excellent dermal compatibility and suitability for biophysical skin measurements.
  2. 02 Research in 2009 demonstrated that concentrations between 15-20% successfully stabilized high-electrolyte thermal water emulsions (80% water phase) while maintaining high penetrability.
  3. 03 A 2024 placebo-controlled study verified that a 2.0% inclusion rate provided a stable base for post-laser recovery treatments, maintaining consistent viscosity and pH throughout the trial.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
2%
Red flag below
1%

While primarily a structural ingredient, using this below 2% in complex emulsions may indicate a lack of functional stability; however, it is rarely 'dusted' as it is essential for the physical integrity of the cream or serum.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 1.5 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits exceptional robustness across a vast pH spectrum and remains stable in the presence of high salt concentrations or electrolytes. Compatible with both hot and cold processing methods.

Synergies

  • Peptides
  • Thermal waters
  • Stem cell extracts
  • Lipophilic actives

Conflicts

  • Certain parabens (may reduce preservative efficacy)
  • Severely compromised or burned skin

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
20%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

CIR assessments confirm safety in cosmetic use. 1,4-dioxane impurities are strictly managed via vacuum stripping to remain below 1 ppm. Non-irritating in Draize testing at 10% dilution.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An elite, skin-loving emulsifier that ensures formulation stability and enhances the delivery of active ingredients without disrupting the skin barrier.

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References

Sources