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C12-18 FATTY ACIDS METHYL ESTERS.

Valuable CAS 68937-84-8 / PERFUMING

A versatile coconut-derived lipophilic ester that functions as both a smoothing emollient and a precision solvent. It provides a lightweight, non-greasy finish while ensuring the stable integration of oil-soluble actives and fragrances within a formula.

Emollient Solvent Perfuming Agent Skin Conditioner

Science

This ingredient operates as a biomimetic emollient, filling the microscopic gaps between desquamating skin cells to restore surface uniformity. It establishes a thin, breathable occlusive barrier that significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and facilitates the efficient delivery of fragrance compounds and other lipid-soluble ingredients.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 5–10%
Optimal

7.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Human patch testing at concentrations up to 10% demonstrated that these methyl esters are non-sensitizing and produce negligible to no dermal irritation.
  2. 02 Clinical assessments at 5% concentration confirmed its safety profile as a carrier solvent, showing no indications of primary irritation or phototoxicity.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
2%
Red flag below
0.5%

In high-performance skincare, this ingredient is typically used at functional levels (2-10%) for its solvent and emollient properties. 'Dusting' is rarely an issue as it is a cost-effective excipient rather than a high-cost claim ingredient; however, levels below 0.5% in a leave-on product likely offer negligible emollient benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3.5 – 8.5
0 7 14

Stability

Chemically stable within standard cosmetic pH ranges. Exposure to extreme acidity (pH <3) or alkalinity (pH >9) may trigger hydrolysis into its parent fatty acids and methanol.

Synergies

  • Oil-soluble vitamins
  • Essential oils
  • Lipophilic surfactants

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Strong acids
  • Highly alkaline environments

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Classified as a low-toxicity ingredient with an excellent safety profile in current cosmetic practices.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Moderate

Our Assessment

Valuable

An effective, well-tolerated multi-tasker that excels at balancing skin hydration and stabilizing oil-soluble components in high-performance cleansers and emulsions.


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