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C12-13 ALKYL GLYCERYL HYDROLYZED HYALURONATE.

Valuable

A modified hyaluronic acid molecule engineered with hydrophobic alkyl chains that enable it to integrate directly into skin's lipid barriers. Unlike traditional hyaluronic acid, this amphiphilic variant anchors within intercellular spaces to restore compromised barrier architecture while delivering sustained hydration. Its extra-low molecular weight profile (<10,000 Da) allows for enhanced penetration and structural repair at the cellular level.

moisturizer humectant skin-conditioning emollient

Science

Functions as a biomimetic barrier restorer by embedding its hydrophobic C12-13 alkyl chains into intercellular lipid layers while its hydrophilic hyaluronate component binds moisture. This dual-phase integration reconstructs the skin's natural lamellar structure, creating a moisture-retaining matrix that reduces transepidermal water loss and strengthens barrier integrity from within.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.05–1%
Optimal

0.1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated significant reduction in transepidermal water loss with enhanced stratum corneum moisture retention in damaged skin
  2. 02 Successfully restored lamellar lipid architecture resulting in measurably smoother and more resilient skin texture
  3. 03 Achieved 100% participant improvement in barrier repair with 74% enhancement in moisturization metrics

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.01%
Red flag below
0.005%

Given the established effective range starting at 0.05%, concentrations below 0.01% would likely provide minimal barrier repair benefits and could indicate formulation padding rather than therapeutic intent.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 6
0 7 14

Stability

Maintains high thermal stability at 45°C for 3+ months in emulsion systems. Demonstrates robust pH tolerance across 4.0-9.0 range, though performs optimally in slightly acidic conditions matching skin's natural pH.


Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
1%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Evaluated under the broader Hyaluronates safety assessment by CIR Expert Panel in 2023, confirming safety profile for current usage patterns and concentrations.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A scientifically advanced barrier repair ingredient that delivers measurable improvements in skin hydration and structural integrity across all skin types.


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References