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C10-40 HYDROXYALKYL ACID.

Valuable / HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A biomimetic lipid complex of long-chain fatty acids (C10-C40) featuring hydroxyl groups that seamlessly integrate into the skin's barrier matrix. This sophisticated emollient acts as a molecular repair system, filling microscopic gaps between skin cells to restore barrier integrity and lock in moisture. Its unique chain length distribution provides both immediate smoothing effects and long-term barrier reinforcement.

emollient skin conditioning hair conditioning barrier repair

Science

Functions as a biomimetic lipid that integrates directly into the stratum corneum's lipid matrix, filling intercellular gaps between corneocytes to strengthen barrier architecture. The hydroxyl groups enable enhanced skin compatibility while the long-chain structure (C10-C40) provides superior occlusive properties, effectively preventing transepidermal water loss and maintaining optimal hydration levels.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–5%
Optimal

2.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Barrier enhancement study at 0.1-5.0% showing improved skin barrier function and enhanced sensory feel in cleansing formulations
  2. 02 TEWL reduction study at 2.0-5.0% demonstrating significant moisture retention when used as precursor to cholesterol esters

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Not commonly used for dusting purposes due to its specialized barrier repair function and higher typical usage concentrations


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Demonstrates exceptional stability in both emulsion and anhydrous systems with high resistance to oxidative degradation due to saturated fatty acid structure

Synergies

  • cholesterol esters
  • ceramides
  • other barrier lipids

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Evaluated by CIR Expert Panel in 2015 as part of hydroxy fatty acids assessment, confirming non-sensitizing and non-irritating profile at standard cosmetic concentrations


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A scientifically-backed barrier repair ingredient that delivers measurable improvements in skin barrier function with excellent safety and universal skin type compatibility.


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