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BIS(HEXYLDECYL/OCTYLDODECYL) LAUROYL GLUTAMATE.

Valuable CAS - / SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A high-performance, amino acid-derived emollient engineered to replicate the biological functions of skin-native ceramides. This sophisticated lipid strengthens the stratum corneum by integrating into the skin's natural architecture to prevent moisture loss and accelerate barrier repair.

Skin-identical ingredient Emollient Barrier repair agent Moisture retention Pigment dispersant

Science

This ingredient functions through 'Type III ceramide mimicry.' Due to its unique molecular structure, it organizes into lamellar liquid crystals within the intercellular lipids of the skin. This creates a robust, water-holding matrix that reinforces the skin's physical shield while significantly enhancing hydration levels.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–1%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical evaluation at 1% concentration demonstrated barrier recovery on SDS-damaged skin superior to that of petrolatum, significantly lowering transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
  2. 02 Human in-use safety trials at 0.5% confirmed 100% skin and ocular compatibility over a 28-day period with zero reported irritation.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

While effective even at lower concentrations for emulsion stability, clinical barrier repair benefits require at least 0.5% to 1%. Formulas containing this ingredient below 0.1% are likely using it for marketing claims rather than functional skin recovery.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Possesses exceptional thermal stability and a shelf life of roughly 24 months; it is frequently used to optimize pigment dispersion and structural integrity in emulsions.

Synergies

  • Ceramides
  • Fatty Acids
  • Cholesterol
  • Mineral UV Filters

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
25.6%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Extensively reviewed by the CIR; found to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing even at high concentrations in leave-on products like lipsticks.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A precision-engineered ceramide mimic that offers superior barrier restoration and hydration compared to traditional occlusives.


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