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BIDENS PILOSA EXTRACT.

Valuable / HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

Often referred to as a plant-based bio-retinol, this botanical extract offers the restorative benefits of traditional retinoids without the associated irritation. It is a precision-oriented ingredient for aging and hyperpigmented skin, providing a stable, phyto-derived alternative for sensitive complexions.

Retinoid-mimetic Collagen booster Skin brightener Anti-inflammatory Antioxidant

Science

It functions by interacting with Retinoid X Receptors (RXRs) and Retinoic Acid Receptors (RARs). The phytol present in the extract converts to phytanic acid within the skin, triggering the synthesis of Collagen I and Elastin while simultaneously suppressing pro-inflammatory cytokines and tyrosinase activity.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.15–2%
Optimal

0.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Observed significant gains in elasticity and radiance alongside pigment reduction over 8 weeks at 0.5%, matching retinol performance (Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2014).
  2. 02 Ex vivo human skin trials at 1.0% concentration confirmed up-regulation of Collagen I and Elastin fibers.
  3. 03 In vitro data at 0.15% demonstrated RXR gene expression and anti-inflammatory action by downregulating IL-1α.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.15%
Red flag below
0.1%

Effective even at low concentrations (0.15%), though most clinical benchmarks for retinol-like performance are set at 0.5% or higher. Formulations below 0.1% may be leveraging the name for marketing rather than biological activity.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 12
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resilient across a wide pH range and electrolyte-tolerant. To maintain the integrity of its heat-sensitive phytochemicals, it should be processed below 40°C.

Synergies

  • Vitamin E
  • Antioxidants
  • Squalane
  • Bakuchiol

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Direct UV exposure (when not stabilized with antioxidants)

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
2%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Topical safety is well-established through human repeat insult patch testing (HRIPT) at therapeutic levels up to 2.0%.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A sophisticated, low-irritation alternative to synthetic retinoids that excels in enhancing skin architecture and luminosity.


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