Science
Mechanism of Action
It functions by upregulating the expression of Occludin (OCLN) and Aquaporin-3 (AQP3), which are vital for maintaining tight junctions and efficient water transport across the epidermis. Additionally, it exerts anti-inflammatory action by inhibiting COX-2 and KLK5 enzymes and uses its tannin content to provide a refining, astringent effect on pore texture.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated significant upregulation of barrier-related genes and inhibition of barrier-degrading enzymes (KLK5 and hyaluronidase) at concentrations as low as 0.1%.
- 02 Established efficacy for antioxidant defense and skin conditioning within the 1-5% range.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While effective at low levels for gene expression, many mass-market formulations include it at 'trace' amounts purely for label appeal. For visible astringent and antioxidant benefits, concentrations above 1% are preferred.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Stable in water-based and glycolic systems. Maintain stability by avoiding extreme thermal processing and protecting from UV exposure via opaque packaging.
Synergies
- Empetrum Nigrum Fruit Juice
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Glycerin
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Nitrosating agents
Safety
Safety Profile
Generally recognized as safe (GRAS). Purified versions are monitored for benzopyrene levels to meet IFRA safety standards for fragrance-related compounds.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance botanical that bridges the gap between traditional soothing extracts and modern barrier-repair science.
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References
Sources