Science
Mechanism of Action
It functions by simultaneously inhibiting Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) enzymes to prevent collagen degradation and stimulating the synthesis of Type I collagen. This dual action facilitates the 'remodeling' of collagen bundles, effectively repairing damaged fibers and improving the skin's biological resilience against deep expression wrinkles.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.1%
Key findings
- 01 A landmark study by POLA Chemical Industries (IFSCC Award winner) demonstrated that a 0.1% concentration inhibited MMP-1 expression by 35% and increased Type I collagen synthesis by 28%.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its high cost and efficacy at low concentrations, it is frequently used at 'claim' levels (0.01% or less). While clinical benefits begin at 0.01%, the significant structural remodeling seen in award-winning studies requires a concentration of 0.1%.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly sensitive to oxidation, high temperatures, and extreme pH levels which can cause hydrolysis. For maximum stability and penetration, it is ideally formulated within liposome microencapsulations or nanodispersions.
Synergies
- Retinoids
- Peptides
- Vitamin C
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Extreme alkaline conditions
- Highly acidic aqueous solutions
Safety
Safety Profile
A 2023 CIR Final Report confirms safety in cosmetics; the ingredient exhibits near-zero irritation and no significant photosensitivity.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An elite-tier active for dermal matrix repair that offers scientifically proven collagen remodeling, provided it is used at the 0.1% clinical threshold.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…
References
Sources