Science
Mechanism of Action
By functioning as a selective agonist for the prostaglandin F (FP) receptor within the hair follicle, it triggers the transition of dormant follicles from the telogen phase back into the anagen phase. Simultaneously, it prolongs the duration of the anagen phase and increases the physical size of the hair bulb, resulting in thicker, longer, and more robust hair fibers.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.018%
Key findings
- 01 Observed in commercial serums to significantly enhance hair bulb volume and extend the growth cycle (BfR 2018).
- 02 Safety dossiers targeting 0.018% demonstrate specific efficacy for increasing eyelash density and length (SCCS/1635/21).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because this ingredient is effective at extremely low concentrations (parts per million), brands often include it at the very bottom of the label at levels near 0.0006%. While technically active, concentrations closer to 0.018% are required for the dramatic results typically advertised.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly lipophilic; the molecule is prone to hydrolysis if the formula's pH deviates below 3.0 or above 7.0.
Synergies
- Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1
- Panthenol
- Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
Conflicts
- Strong acids
- Strong bases
- Oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
Regulatory bodies like the SCCS note potential ocular side effects including iris color changes and eyelid hyperpigmentation; use with caution and avoid direct eye contact.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A highly effective but pharmacologically active stimulant that requires precise formulation and careful application to balance results with safety.
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