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BEHENYL ERUCATE.

Valuable CAS 18312-32-8 / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A sophisticated, long-chain wax ester that provides intensive conditioning without a heavy residue. It is prized in precision skincare for its ability to mimic the skin's natural lipid profile, creating a protective yet breathable barrier.

Occlusive Emollient Skin Conditioner Texture Enhancer

Science

As an occlusive emollient with a C44 carbon chain, Behenyl Erucate creates a semi-permeable film that significantly reduces trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). It integrates into the stratum corneum to increase pliability and smooth the skin's micro-relief, functioning similarly to natural sebum or jojoba oil to restore lipid balance.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–25%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 A clinical evaluation of 552 subjects using 1.5% concentrations confirmed the ingredient is non-sensitizing via HRIPT methodology.
  2. 02 Long-term use tests over 4 weeks demonstrated zero adverse clinical reactions at a 1.0% concentration level.
  3. 03 Comparative safety data indicates that while 100% undiluted material can be a moderate irritant, standard cosmetic dilutions remain benign for human skin.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because it serves a structural and barrier-protective role, levels below 1% may provide some slip but fail to offer the meaningful TEWL reduction required for dry skin recovery.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable at temperatures up to 80°C. Featuring a low melting point of 40-46°C, it provides an 'instant-melt' sensory experience upon skin contact.

Synergies

  • Ceramides
  • Squalane
  • Shea Butter

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High pH environments (>9.0) which risk saponification

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
25%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel supports its safety in concentrations up to 25% (typically found in lip products). At standard skincare levels, it is remarkably well-tolerated.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional, biomimetic lipid that provides superior barrier support and a refined sensory profile for dry and sensitive skin types.


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