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Moumoujus

BEHENIC ACID.

Valuable CAS 112-85-6 / CLEANSING, OPACIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A long-chain C22 saturated fatty acid that serves as a cornerstone for both structural formulation integrity and skin barrier reinforcement. Its unique molecular length allows it to provide a rich, luxurious texture without the heavy or greasy residue typically associated with shorter-chain lipids.

Summary

Emollient Surfactant Emulsifying agent Opacifying agent Viscosity increasing agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

Behenic acid functions as a biomimetic emollient that integrates into the stratum corneum to form a breathable, water-repellent protective film. By mimicking the skin's natural lipid profile, it effectively reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and bolsters the skin's defense against environmental stressors while acting as an opacifier and stabilizer in emulsions.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.024–22%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 2018 CIR Safety Assessment confirmed that concentrations up to 22% are well-tolerated and provide significant improvements in product stability and skin-feel.
  2. 02 2016 survey data validated its safety in mucosal applications (lipsticks) at concentrations up to 14%, noting no adverse systemic effects.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

As a structural fatty acid, behenic acid is rarely used for 'label claim' marketing. While it is effective at low levels for emulsion stabilization, levels below 0.1% may indicate it is present only for formula stability rather than skin conditioning benefits.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4.5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Extremely resistant to oxidation with high thermal stability; however, it requires a melting phase between 72-80°C during formulation.

Synergies

  • Ceramides
  • Cholesterol
  • Glycerin
  • Stearic Acid

Conflicts

  • Strong bases
  • Oxidizing agents
  • Reducing agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
22%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Recognized as safe for use in products involving incidental ingestion and long-term dermal contact.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A sophisticated, high-stability lipid that provides essential barrier support and superior sensory characteristics across all skin types.

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