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Moumoujus

BEESWAX ACID.

Valuable CAS 135457-95-3 / CLEANSING, LIGHT STABILIZER, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A refined complex of fatty acids derived from natural beeswax, primarily used to enhance formula integrity and skin protection. It bridges the gap between a cleansing surfactant and a nourishing emollient, providing a structured yet breathable finish to skincare applications.

Summary

emollient emulsifying agent surfactant stabilizing film-forming

Science

Mechanism of Action

It functions as a multi-tasking lipid that reduces surface tension to stabilize emulsions while forming a semi-occlusive barrier on the stratum corneum. This film-forming action prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shields the skin from external environmental aggressors.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–21%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical patch testing on 100 subjects demonstrated that straight-chain fatty acids analogous to Beeswax Acid are non-irritating over 24-hour exposure periods.
  2. 02 Safety assessments of C14-C18 long-chain fatty acids confirm they are non-sensitizing and non-irritating at concentrations up to 50%.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

As a functional texture enhancer and stabilizer, it is rarely 'dusted' for marketing purposes; its presence usually indicates a deliberate formulation choice for structural or emollient benefits.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4.5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Highly effective at stabilizing the pH of a formula and improving the physical consistency of emulsions. It is insoluble in water but integrates seamlessly into fixed and volatile oils.

Synergies

  • Stearic Acid
  • Fixed Vegetable Oils
  • Mineral UV Filters

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly alkaline environments (risk of saponification)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
21%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel considers it safe in typical cosmetic use, noting that while the category allows up to 21% in leave-on products, it is generally used at lower levels in complex mixtures.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A reliable, multi-functional fatty acid complex that provides essential structural stability and barrier protection across all skin types.

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References

Sources