Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions via a dual-action pathway: it inhibits Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) to protect the dermal matrix from collagen degradation while simultaneously suppressing tyrosinase activity to regulate melanin production. The fermentation process enriches the filtrate with amino acids and bioactive peptides that reinforce the skin barrier and provide intensive humectancy.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 Inhibition of melanin formation by 50.8% at a precise concentration of 0.004% in-vitro.
- 02 Suppression of wrinkle formation and epidermal thickening through the promotion of procollagen type I and TGF-beta1.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because this ingredient shows measurable biological activity at extremely low concentrations (0.004%), many brands include it at 'label-only' levels. For corrective results regarding wrinkle depth and barrier repair, look for formulations closer to the 1.0% clinical benchmark.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in aqueous systems; however, the integrity of the bioactive peptides can be compromised if exposed to temperatures exceeding 60°C for extended periods.
Synergies
- Vitamin C
- Niacinamide
- Peptides
- Hyaluronic Acid
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High concentrations of cationic surfactants
Safety
Safety Profile
Derived from a food-grade botanical source; categorized within the safe-as-used family of botanical ferment filtrates by CIR standards.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance biotech active that bridges the gap between traditional botanical soothing and modern clinical brightening.
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References
Sources