Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient utilizes a four-pronged approach: 1) Morel-derived polysaccharides suppress nitric oxide to reduce oxidative stress; 2) Bacillus fermentation generates Polyglutamic Acid (PGA) for high-capacity humectancy; 3) Proteolytic enzymes break soybean proteins into elasticizing peptides; and 4) It modulates 5-alpha reductase to regulate follicular sebum production.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 In vivo evaluations demonstrate significant sebum-regulating properties and improved barrier protection through the production of bioactive peptides and PGA.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is an expensive fermented complex, brands may include it at sub-clinical levels (<1.0%) for marketing claims without providing the specific sebum-regulating or barrier-repairing benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in aqueous systems; should be added during the cooling phase of emulsions to preserve fermented bio-activity. Store in a cool, dark environment.
Synergies
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Ceramides
Conflicts
- High alcohol concentrations
- Cationic surfactants
- Extreme pH environments (<3.0 or >9.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
Both Morel mushrooms and Soybean ferments are Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) and listed in the EU CosIng database without usage restrictions.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional hybrid ingredient that bridges the gap between intense hydration and sebum control, making it ideal for combination or acne-prone skin.
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