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BACILLUS/MONASCUS/SESAME SEED/SOYBEAN FERMENT FILTRATE.

Valuable / ANTIMICROBIAL, ANTIOXIDANT, HAIR CONDITIONING, LIGHT STABILIZER, SKIN CONDITIONING

This advanced bio-active complex leverages dual-strain fermentation to transform plant-based lignans and isoflavones into highly bioavailable aglycones. It serves as a multifunctional powerhouse, offering superior melanin inhibition and antioxidant protection while acting as a natural photostabilizer for cosmetic formulations.

Antioxidant Brightening Agent Skin Conditioning Photostabilizer Antimicrobial

Science

The fermentation process utilizes Bacillus and Monascus microorganisms to enzymatically convert inactive glycoside isoflavones from soybean and lignans from sesame into bioactive aglycone forms like daidzein, genistein, and sesaminol. These smaller molecules penetrate the skin barrier more effectively. Additionally, the process generates secondary metabolites, specifically monascin and ankaflavin, which provide robust antioxidant defense and protect the formula from light-induced degradation.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 5% concentration demonstrated more potent inhibition of melanogenesis in B16F10 cells compared to arbutin.
  2. 02 The fermentation process yielded a 33.4-fold increase in isoflavone aglycones and a 3.0-fold increase in CoQ10 levels.
  3. 03 Significant enhancement in tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities was observed post-fermentation.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
2%
Red flag below
1%

Due to its complex name and botanical origin, this ingredient is frequently used at 'claim' levels (below 1%). However, clinical data suggests that a 5% concentration is necessary to achieve the brightening potency that exceeds standard arbutin benchmarks.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable within physiological pH ranges; uniquely functions as a light stabilizer for other UV-sensitive active ingredients in the same formula.

Synergies

  • Ascorbic Acid
  • Chemical UV Filters
  • Niacinamide

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Extremely acidic (pH <3.0) or alkaline (pH >8.0) environments

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While the specific four-component filtrate has not been individually reviewed by the CIR, its precursors (soybean and sesame) and the Bacillus ferment process are Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) and listed in the EU CosIng database.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A sophisticated biotechnological active that provides clinically-backed brightening and antioxidant benefits, outperforming arbutin when formulated at its optimal 5% concentration.


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