Science
Mechanism of Action
The fermentation process utilizes Bacillus and Monascus microorganisms to enzymatically convert inactive glycoside isoflavones from soybean and lignans from sesame into bioactive aglycone forms like daidzein, genistein, and sesaminol. These smaller molecules penetrate the skin barrier more effectively. Additionally, the process generates secondary metabolites, specifically monascin and ankaflavin, which provide robust antioxidant defense and protect the formula from light-induced degradation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 A 5% concentration demonstrated more potent inhibition of melanogenesis in B16F10 cells compared to arbutin.
- 02 The fermentation process yielded a 33.4-fold increase in isoflavone aglycones and a 3.0-fold increase in CoQ10 levels.
- 03 Significant enhancement in tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities was observed post-fermentation.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its complex name and botanical origin, this ingredient is frequently used at 'claim' levels (below 1%). However, clinical data suggests that a 5% concentration is necessary to achieve the brightening potency that exceeds standard arbutin benchmarks.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable within physiological pH ranges; uniquely functions as a light stabilizer for other UV-sensitive active ingredients in the same formula.
Synergies
- Ascorbic Acid
- Chemical UV Filters
- Niacinamide
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Extremely acidic (pH <3.0) or alkaline (pH >8.0) environments
Safety
Safety Profile
While the specific four-component filtrate has not been individually reviewed by the CIR, its precursors (soybean and sesame) and the Bacillus ferment process are Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) and listed in the EU CosIng database.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A sophisticated biotechnological active that provides clinically-backed brightening and antioxidant benefits, outperforming arbutin when formulated at its optimal 5% concentration.
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