Science
Mechanism of Action
This ferment functions via a dual-action pathway: it inhibits the enzymatic activity of elastase and hyaluronidase to preserve structural integrity, while simultaneously blocking tyrosinase to interrupt melanin synthesis. Additionally, it regulates sebaceous gland activity to balance oil production and increases cellular access to aglycone isoflavones.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated 88.5% inhibition of hyaluronidase activity at a 5% concentration, indicating potent hydration retention and anti-aging capabilities.
- 02 Showed higher efficacy in inhibiting α-MSH-induced melanogenesis compared to arbutin, establishing it as a top-tier brightening agent.
- 03 Exhibited dose-dependent antioxidant capacity via ORAC and TEAC metrics, effectively neutralising oxidative stress.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its complex name and high manufacturing cost, many brands include this filtrate at symbolic levels (under 0.1%) for marketing claims. However, clinical data suggests that significant antioxidant and enzymatic inhibition requires concentrations closer to 5%.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in aqueous systems; it remains robust across standard cosmetic pH ranges but should be monitored if the formula shifts toward pH 8.0 during manufacture.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Vitamin C derivatives
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Peptides
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Extreme pH environments below 3.0 or above 9.0
Safety
Safety Profile
Derived from food-grade fermentation processes; listed in the EU CosIng database with no specific restrictions. Generally considered safe due to the biocompatibility of fermented soybean and botanical extracts.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A versatile, precision-engineered ferment that excels in brightening and enzyme regulation, making it an ideal choice for multi-functional anti-aging and oil-control formulas.
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References
Sources