Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a precision postbiotic system where diverse microbes (including photosynthetic Rhodopseudomonas) break down botanical substrates into low-molecular-weight nutrients. It utilizes liquiritin from licorice to inhibit tyrosinase for brightening, while fermented sesame glycoproteins reorganize the skin matrix to counter UV-induced structural degradation. The resulting metabolites provide a redox-balancing effect that stabilizes the skin's biological environment.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 Application of 0.5% fermented sesame glycoproteins demonstrated a measurable reduction in the volume, length, and count of UV-induced wrinkles.
- 02 Concentrations between 1.0% and 5.0% utilizing EM technology showed significant tyrosinase inhibition and potent antioxidant capacity compared to standard extracts.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its exceptionally long INCI name and complex production, it is frequently used at 'label claim' concentrations (below 0.1%). To achieve documented anti-wrinkle and brightening benefits, a minimum inclusion of 0.5% is required.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The filtrate is highly stable in aqueous solutions but is thermolabile; it must be incorporated during the cool-down phase at temperatures below 40°C to maintain the integrity of its enzymes and postbiotic metabolites.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Vitamin C derivatives
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Extreme pH environments (<3.0 or >9.0)
- High ethanol concentrations
Safety
Safety Profile
While the specific complex is pending CIR review, its constituent ferments and botanical extracts (Licorice, Sesame) are well-established as safe and low-risk by the SCCS and FDA.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptionally versatile postbiotic powerhouse that excels in multi-pathway anti-aging and brightening when formulated at or above 0.5%.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…