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Moumoujus

BACILLUS/DENDROPANAX MORBIFERUS SAP EXTRACT/SOYBEAN FERMENT FILTRATE.

Valuable / EMULSION STABILISING, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING

A sophisticated bio-fermented complex merging the regenerative sap of the Korean Hwangchil tree with nutrient-dense soybean filtrates. This multi-functional ingredient utilizes Bacillus fermentation to unlock high-potency polyphenols and peptides, targeting hyperpigmentation and oxidative stress at a cellular level.

Summary

Skin Conditioning Humectant Antioxidant Skin Protecting Emulsion Stabilizing Brightening

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates through a four-tier pathway: first, it suppresses melanogenesis by inhibiting tyrosinase and downregulating MITF, TRP-1, and TRP-2 proteins; second, it acts as a high-capacity antioxidant by scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS) and boosting superoxide dismutase activity; third, it limits inflammatory signaling (NF-κB) to reduce cytokine production; and finally, it reinforces the moisture barrier through fermented isoflavones and peptides.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Concentrations between 0.1% and 5% demonstrated significant inhibition of melanin formation and tyrosinase activity in melanoma cell models.
  2. 02 At levels of 10-300 µg/mL, the extract showed radical scavenging rates between 60% and 92%, significantly protecting HaCaT cells from oxidative damage.
  3. 03 Fermentation was proven to enhance antioxidant capacity to 97.1%, compared to 89.8% in non-fermented variants, due to increased polyphenol bioavailability.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

Due to its complex INCI name and premium nature, this ingredient is frequently used at 'label-only' concentrations below 0.1%. While active at low levels, clinical brightening effects typically require concentrations of 1% or higher.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable in water-based formulas but heat-sensitive; exposure to temperatures exceeding 40°C or direct UV light can degrade the sensitive fermented metabolites.

Synergies

  • Niacinamide
  • Vitamin C
  • Ceramides
  • Hyaluronic Acid

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High concentrations of ethanol

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Derived from traditionally edible Korean botanicals (Hwangchil and Soybean); demonstrated low cytotoxicity (IC50 > 500 µg/mL) in human skin models.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An exceptional multi-tasking ferment that provides scientifically backed brightening and antioxidant protection, provided it is formulated at an efficacious percentage.

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