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Moumoujus

AUREOBASIDIUM PULLULANS/OLIVE OIL FERMENT FILTRATE EXTRACT.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING

A high-performance bio-ferment produced by the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans using olive oil as a substrate. This precision ingredient converts traditional lipids into highly bioavailable glycolipids and polysaccharides designed to fortify the skin's structural integrity.

Summary

Skin-conditioning Barrier restoration Emollient Biological film-former

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract operates through a dual-phase delivery system. First, it synthesizes Pullulan, a natural polysaccharide that creates a non-occlusive, breathable matrix on the skin's surface to prevent moisture evaporation. Simultaneously, it provides Mannosylerythritol Lipids (MELs)—ceramide-mimetic glycolipids that integrate directly into the intercellular lipid bilayer to repair the barrier and stimulate the production of essential cornified envelope proteins like filaggrin and involucrin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

2.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vivo data confirms a 35% increase in skin hydration sustained over 24 hours at concentrations between 2-3%.
  2. 02 Four-week clinical assessments demonstrate a significant reduction in Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), indicating active barrier restoration.
  3. 03 In vitro analysis shows increased expression of filaggrin and involucrin at a 1.0% concentration, supporting long-term skin resilience.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Due to its sophisticated name and ferment status, this ingredient is frequently used at trace amounts (<0.5%) for marketing purposes. However, clinical data suggests that a minimum of 1-2% is required to achieve measurable improvements in barrier function and hydration.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Thermally sensitive; must be incorporated during the cooling phase (below 40°C). It acts as a natural co-emulsifier due to its inherent biosurfactant content.

Synergies

  • Ceramides
  • Glycerin
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Squalane

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly acidic formulations (pH < 3.5)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Classified as Generally Regarded as Safe (GRAS). The non-pathogenic nature of the fermenting yeast makes it highly compatible with sensitive skin.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A sophisticated biotechnological active that provides superior barrier repair and deep hydration, provided it is formulated at an efficacious concentration.

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