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Moumoujus

AUREOBASIDIUM PULLULANS FERMENT EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS - / FILM FORMING

A sophisticated biotechnological ferment derived from 'black yeast' that is exceptionally rich in restorative exopolysaccharides like pullulan and beta-glucan. It functions as a multi-active shield, providing immediate surface protection while reinforcing the skin's internal antioxidant architecture against environmental aggression.

Summary

Humectant Soothing agent Antioxidant Film former Anti-pollution shield

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract operates through a dual-action pathway: it forms an invisible, breathable polymeric film on the stratum corneum to block particulate pollutants, while simultaneously downregulating the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1α. Furthermore, it biologically upregulates essential endogenous enzymes, including Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) and Catalase (CAT), to neutralize oxidative stress and mitigate UVB-induced lipid damage.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.08–3%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 2024 study confirmed that even at a minimal concentration of 0.08%, the extract significantly restores SOD, GSH-Px, and CAT enzymes, effectively inhibiting lipid peroxidation.
  2. 02 Clinical trials utilizing 1-3% concentrations demonstrated measurable improvements in skin firmness and elasticity through the stimulation of human skin fibroblasts.
  3. 03 12-week clinical evaluations of the exopolymers showed a significant reduction in the SCORAD index for atopic dermatitis, alongside decreased transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

Due to its potent film-forming properties that can be felt at very low levels, it is frequently used at 'label claim' concentrations (below 0.1%). To achieve the significant anti-aging and barrier repair benefits validated in clinical trials, concentrations between 1% and 3% are required.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resilient to oxidation and thermal fluctuations. It contributes to the sensory profile of a formula by controlling viscosity and improving spreadability.

Synergies

  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Niacinamide
  • Panthenol

Conflicts

  • High electrolyte concentrations
  • Cationic surfactants

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Reviewed under Microbial Polysaccharide Gums; its primary constituent, pullulan, holds FDA GRAS status.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An excellent multifunctional ingredient for modern skincare that provides both immediate textural benefits and long-term biological protection against urban aging.

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