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AUREOBASIDIUM PULLULANS FERMENT.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING

A high-performance biotech ferment derived from black yeast that serves as a multi-functional barrier architect. It combines the protective qualities of a second-skin film with deep cellular signaling to enhance skin resilience and hydration.

barrier repair anti-pollution humectant soothing agent texturizer

Science

This ferment synthesizes a matrix of extracellular polysaccharides, specifically pullulan and beta-glucans, which create a breathable, non-occlusive shield against environmental pollutants. Beyond surface protection, it optimizes cellular energy by elevating the NAD+/NADH ratio and stimulates structural proteins like involucrin to densify the epidermal barrier while suppressing inflammatory markers like IL-1α.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–10%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Topical 10% concentration demonstrated significant improvement in barrier function and a measurable reduction in reactive skin sensitivity in Estée Lauder research.
  2. 02 Low-dose applications (0.1-1%) are clinically proven to smooth skin microrelief and increase the synthesis of essential epidermal cohesion markers.
  3. 03 Oral supplementation studies (250mg) further validate its systemic ability to reduce transepidermal water loss and manage atopic dermatitis severity.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

Because it is effective at very low concentrations (0.1%), brands often include it at 'label claim' levels (below 0.05%) that fail to trigger the NAD+ metabolic boost or structural protein synthesis found in manufacturer data.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3 – 12
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits 'polyextremotolerance,' maintaining structural integrity across extreme pH levels and high electrolyte environments. Its non-ionic nature allows it to act as a secondary emulsion stabilizer.

Synergies

  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Niacinamide
  • Ceramides
  • Antioxidants

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Recognized as safe under the CIR assessments for yeast-derived ingredients; the resulting pullulan is FDA GRAS rated.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptionally stable, biotech-derived shield that provides both immediate surface smoothing and long-term biological barrier reinforcement.


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