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Moumoujus

AUREOBASIDIUM PULLULANS/DIMOCARPUS LONGAN FRUIT EXTRACT FERMENT FILTRATE.

Valuable / HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

A high-performance symbiotic ferment produced by the action of black yeast on Longan fruit, yielding a nutrient-dense filtrate rich in bioavailable phenolics and exopolysaccharides. It serves as a multi-functional bioactive that simultaneously accelerates cellular repair while shielding the skin from chemical-induced inflammation.

Summary

Humectant Skin conditioning Antioxidant Soothing Barrier repair

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient utilizes a microbial fermentation process where Aureobasidium pullulans enzymatically converts Longan fruit compounds into low-molecular-weight actives, including gallic acid and corilagin. These molecules provide potent antioxidant defense while the yeast produces a protective film of pullulan and beta-glucan to reinforce barrier integrity; concurrently, the filtrate stimulates ATP production to fuel cellular regeneration and suppresses pro-inflammatory cytokines like IL-1α.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vitro analysis confirms significant induction of keratinocyte migration and fibroblast proliferation, indicating enhanced wound healing and structural remodeling.
  2. 02 Clinical data demonstrates a marked reduction in IL-1α levels, effectively neutralizing skin irritation caused by exposure to AHAs and other chemical stressors.
  3. 03 ATP recovery studies show a measurable boost in cellular energy levels following metabolic stress.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because fermented extracts carry significant marketing appeal, they are frequently 'dusted' at concentrations below 1%. However, clinical data from the WCD indicates that concentrations between 1-5% are required to trigger physiological responses like fibroblast proliferation and ATP recovery.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

The filtrate is thermolabile; exposure to temperatures exceeding 50°C during the emulsification process can denature the active enzymatic byproducts and proteins.

Synergies

  • Alpha Hydroxy Acids (as a soothing buffer)
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Niacinamide

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High-heat processing

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Derived from non-pathogenic yeast and edible fruit; categorized as low-hazard and non-irritating in standard cosmetic applications.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A scientifically robust ferment that bridges the gap between traditional antioxidant protection and advanced cellular signaling for skin repair.

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