Science
Mechanism of Action
The extract operates primarily through the inhibition of keratinase, an enzyme responsible for the premature degradation of keratin proteins. By preserving these structural building blocks, it maintains the integrity of the skin barrier and nail plate. Furthermore, its alpha and beta-amyrin content modulates inflammatory mediators, while proanthocyanidins provide a robust antioxidant shield against oxidative damage.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.5%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro studies demonstrated that a 0.5% concentration inhibited keratinase activity by 25% after 48 hours and 28% after 72 hours, reinforcing structural durability.
- 02 In vitro testing at 50 mg/mL showed targeted antimicrobial activity against E. coli, highlighting its potential for purifying the skin surface.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
This ingredient is frequently included in botanical-themed products at negligible concentrations (below 0.1%) for marketing purposes. To achieve the documented 25-28% inhibition of keratin degradation, a minimum concentration of 0.5% is required.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Demonstrates high stability in anhydrous systems and the oil phase of emulsions. The presence of natural triterpenes provides inherent resistance to oxidation during storage.
Synergies
- Ceramides
- Tocopherol
- Panthenol
- Linoleic acid-rich oils
Safety
Safety Profile
Recognized by the EU CosIng as a safe skin-conditioning agent. While the parent wood dust is an occupational irritant, the refined resin extract has a high safety profile supported by traditional wound-healing uses.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An excellent functional botanical for products targeting structural integrity and barrier sensitivity, provided it is formulated at or above the 0.5% efficacy threshold.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…