Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through a multi-pathway approach: it inhibits the enzymes collagenase and elastase to prevent the degradation of vital structural proteins, utilizes its flavonoid profile to neutralize free radicals (DPPH and hydroxyl), and enhances the moisture-retention capacity of the stratum corneum by stimulating fibroblast proliferation and ATP production.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Concentrations of 3%, 5%, and 8% demonstrated significant increases in stratum corneum moisture levels that persisted for over 5 hours post-application.
- 02 A 10 mg/mL (~1%) concentration exhibited 95.1% DPPH radical scavenging activity, performing comparably to synthetic antioxidant benchmarks.
- 03 In-vitro data suggests the extract activates Wnt and AKT/ERK signaling pathways, promoting cellular wound healing and reducing reactive oxygen species (ROS).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Many formulations include this extract at very low levels (below 0.5%) for label claims. However, clinical data suggests that at least 1% is required for antioxidant protection and 3% or higher is necessary to achieve measurable moisturizing benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Maintains physical and functional stability in slightly acidic environments; however, it is thermolabile and should not be exposed to temperatures exceeding 60°C for extended periods.
Synergies
- Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Glycerin
Conflicts
- High alkaline conditions
- Prolonged high-heat processing
Safety
Safety Profile
Though not yet formally reviewed by the CIR, its long-standing use in commercial personal care and lack of reported toxicity in botanical literature indicate a high safety profile.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An excellent multi-functional botanical that provides scientifically-backed hydration and antioxidant protection when used at concentrations above 1%.
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