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Moumoujus

ASTERISCUS GRAVEOLENS FLOWER/FRUIT/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT.

Valuable / SKIN PROTECTING

A resilient botanical extract derived from the desert-dwelling Asteriscus graveolens, specifically engineered to serve as a biological shield against urban stressors. It provides a multi-dimensional defense mechanism that preserves cellular integrity while significantly refining skin texture and visible luminosity.

Summary

Anti-pollution shield Biological antioxidant DNA protector Anti-aging Skin conditioning

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract operates via a dual-action pathway: it downregulates pro-apoptotic genes like Caspase-3 to prevent pollution-induced cell death while simultaneously upregulating detoxification enzymes such as CYP4F11. Its high concentration of hydroxycinnamic acids neutralizes reactive oxygen species (ROS) triggered by tobacco smoke and particulate matter, effectively halting oxidative DNA damage.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–1%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 28-day clinical evaluation of a 1.0% concentration demonstrated a measurable decrease in both wrinkle depth and frequency, alongside significant enhancements in skin tone uniformity and radiance.
  2. 02 In vitro testing at 0.1% to 1.0% showed a significant protective effect on keratinocyte viability when exposed to tobacco smoke, preventing oxidative stress-induced cell death.
  3. 03 At a 0.5% concentration, the extract provided robust protection against DNA fragmentation in cellular models exposed to urban air pollution.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

With clinical efficacy established as low as 0.1% for cellular protection, this ingredient is rarely 'dusted.' However, for visible anti-aging and texture benefits, a full 1.0% concentration is the benchmark for precision performance.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Maintains stability in aqueous solutions for at least 90 days at elevated temperatures (40-50°C). It is most commonly utilized as a glycerin-stabilized extract.

Synergies

  • Vitamin C (stabilized)
  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic Acid

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Formulations with pH below 4.0 or above 8.0 (risk of phenolic degradation)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While a standalone CIR report is pending, it is listed as a safe skin-protecting agent in the EU Cosing database. Toxicological data indicates low toxicity and high biocompatibility.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An essential precision ingredient for urban-focused skincare, providing scientifically validated protection against smoke and particulate-induced aging.

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