Science
Mechanism of Action
It functions as a precision anti-melanogenic agent by modulating MITF expression through the MAPK/ERK and Akt/GSK3β pathways to inhibit overproduction of pigment. Additionally, it stimulates the expression of filaggrin, a critical protein for maintaining the structural integrity of the skin's moisture barrier, while neutralising oxidative stress via ROS scavenging.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 Clinical evaluation demonstrated a 3.33% to 8.68% reduction in melanin synthesis over an 8-week period.
- 02 In vitro analysis confirmed significant filaggrin upregulation, indicating enhanced barrier-building capabilities.
- 03 Human patch testing (48-hour) resulted in a 0.00 irritation score.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its high cost and exotic 'phytoplacenta' marketing appeal, this ingredient is often used at concentrations below 1% purely for label claims. However, clinical data suggests a minimum of 1% is required to trigger measurable brightening and barrier repair.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Thermolabile; must be incorporated during the cooling phase at temperatures below 40°C to maintain biological activity. Stable in aqueous systems and emulsions.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Ceramides
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High pH alkaline formulations
Safety
Safety Profile
Classified as non-irritating and generally regarded as safe (GRAS) for topical cosmetic use.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An innovative, high-performance botanical extract that bridges the gap between traditional herbal medicine and modern biotechnology for pigmentation and barrier concerns.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…