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ASTER SPATHULIFOLIUS LEAF/STEM OIL.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A potent botanical oil derived from the Korean sea aster, prized for its dual-action ability to brighten hyperpigmentation while calming inflammatory stress. This precision ingredient targets the root causes of skin discoloration and sensitivity, making it a versatile asset for achieving a uniform, resilient complexion.

Brightening Anti-inflammatory Skin Conditioning Antioxidant

Science

It acts as a sophisticated anti-melanogenic agent by downregulating the Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) through the activation of MAPK/ERK and Akt/GSK3β signaling pathways. Simultaneously, it exerts anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting the production of nitric oxide and pro-inflammatory cytokines like TNF-α, effectively reducing both pigment production and redness.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 50–200%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In vitro B16F10 melanoma cell research showed dose-dependent inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis at 50-200 µM concentrations.
  2. 02 In vivo testing on UVB-exposed models at 140 mg/kg demonstrated a measurable reduction in epidermal melanin content and melanocyte activity.
  3. 03 Research confirmed suppression of NO and TNF-α in activated macrophages, validating its role as a potent soothing agent.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

Due to its exotic nature and high-potency volatile compounds, this oil is often included at negligible levels ('label dusting') in K-Beauty marketing. For meaningful anti-pigment results, it should be present in concentrations reflecting its clinical test parameters.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Rich in volatile sesquiterpenes (Germacrene D and Caryophyllene) which are prone to oxidation. Must be stabilized with antioxidants like Tocopherol and stored in light-protected, airtight packaging.

Synergies

  • Vitamin E
  • Niacinamide
  • Ferulic Acid

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High-heat processing

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Recognized as safe and edible by the Korean MFDS; listed as a skin conditioning agent in the EU CosIng database.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional multi-tasking oil that bridges the gap between high-performance brightening and sensitive skin care.


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