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ASPERULA ODORATA FLOWER/LEAF EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 90028-83-4 / SKIN CONDITIONING

A potent botanical extract derived from Sweet Woodruff, characterized by a high concentration of bioactive flavonoids and coumarins. It is primarily utilized in precision skincare for its ability to accelerate tissue repair and modulate the skin's inflammatory response.

Skin conditioning Anti-inflammatory Antioxidant Wound healing Antimicrobial

Science

The extract functions through a dual-action pathway: it inhibits prostaglandin synthesis to reduce local inflammation and downregulates M1 macrophage polarization, which significantly decreases proinflammatory cytokines like IL-6 and CXCL8. Additionally, its coumarin content facilitates the breakdown of extracellular protein accumulation, effectively reducing tissue swelling and edema.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.005–30%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vivo rat models demonstrated 90.68% to 97.18% wound contraction and enhanced re-epithelialization using 15-30% aqueous extracts.
  2. 02 In vitro analysis (50-750 µg/mL) confirmed significant reduction in proinflammatory markers and M1 macrophage activity.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

While significant wound-healing data exists for high concentrations (15%+), biological modulation of cytokines occurs at much lower concentrations (microgram levels). Formulations containing less than 0.1% are likely included for label claims rather than physiological impact.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Thermolabile; bioactive integrity may be compromised if exposed to temperatures exceeding 45°C. Highly stable in Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsions when added during the cooling phase.

Synergies

  • Quercetin
  • Luteolin
  • Kaempferol

Conflicts

  • High heat
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Recognized as GRAS by the FDA for food use. Contains natural coumarin, which requires specific labeling under EU Annex III regulations due to potential fragrance sensitization in rare cases.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A scientifically backed botanical for tissue regeneration and cytokine modulation, particularly effective in soothing reactive or compromised skin barriers.


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References