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Moumoujus

ASPERGILLUS/SOYBEAN SEED EXTRACT FERMENT EXTRACT FILTRATE.

Valuable / HUMECTANT

A bio-transformed active produced through the fermentation of soybean seeds by Aspergillus (Koji mold), specifically engineered to combat skin dullness and loss of structural integrity. This precision filtrate is rich in bioavailable hydroxylated isoflavones that target the biological pathways responsible for skin yellowing and collagen degradation.

Summary

Anti-glycation Skin Brightening Antioxidant Humectant Skin Conditioning

Science

Mechanism of Action

The fermentation process converts soy glycosides into potent hydroxylated isoflavones, such as 8-hydroxy-genistein. These molecules function as anti-glycation agents by inhibiting the Maillard reaction, which prevents the formation of Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs) like CML and pentosidine that stiffen collagen fibers. Additionally, it acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor and antioxidant to regulate melanin transfer and neutralize oxidative stress.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1.25–10%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical evaluation confirmed significant inhibition of AGEs (CML and pentosidine) in the human stratum corneum, resulting in a measurable anti-yellowing effect and enhanced skin elasticity.
  2. 02 In-vivo testing at 2.0% demonstrated the degradation of existing AGEs within corneocytes and the suppression of carbonyl protein generation, a primary driver of age-related loss of transparency.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1.25%
Red flag below
1%

Due to its high manufacturing cost and the marketing appeal of 'fermented' ingredients, this extract is frequently used at 'claim-only' levels (often below 0.5%). However, clinical data indicates that a minimum concentration of 1.25% is required to achieve meaningful anti-glycation and anti-yellowing results.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3 – 4.5
0 7 14

Stability

The filtrate contains phenolic metabolites that are heat-sensitive; it must be incorporated during the cooling phase of production (below 40°C) to maintain efficacy. It is most stable in acidic to neutral environments.

Synergies

  • Niacinamide (for enhanced barrier and brightening)
  • L-Ascorbic Acid (synergistic antioxidant protection)
  • Humectants (to amplify skin conditioning properties)

Conflicts

  • Strongly alkaline formulations (pH > 8.0) which may degrade bioactive phenolic components.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Human patch testing at 100% concentration resulted in zero irritation. While not yet formally reviewed by the CIR, its components (soy and yeast derivatives) have a long history of safe use in skincare.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An exceptional precision active for reversing sallow skin tones and protecting the dermal matrix from glycation-induced aging.

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