Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions by supplying a complex array of fermentation-derived metabolites, including amino acids, organic acids, and vitamins, which act as biological signals to upregulate barrier proteins like Filaggrin and Aquaporin-3. On a deeper level, it mitigates oxidative stress from UVA exposure and stimulates fibroblasts to increase the synthesis of Collagen types I and III, alongside Elastin, for improved skin elasticity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro modeling at 1.25% demonstrated a 26.93% increase in epidermal water content and enhanced barrier protein expression.
- 02 A 3% concentration resulted in a significant upregulation of dermal mRNA levels: Collagen Type I (+17%), Type III (+47%), and Elastin (+159%).
- 03 Even at trace amounts (0.0142%), the filtrate showed an 18.38% reduction in melanin content, indicating notable brightening potential.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its high cost and the popularity of 'ferment' marketing, many products include this ingredient at trace levels (below 0.1%) to claim its benefits. However, clinical data suggests that a minimum of 1.25% is required for significant barrier improvement and 3% for meaningful anti-aging structural changes.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Exhibits robust thermal stability up to 85°C and remains stable across a wide pH spectrum (3.0-12.0 in specific systems). It is generally compatible with electrolyte-rich environments.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Peptides
- Panthenol
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High concentrations of anionic surfactants
Safety
Safety Profile
While specifically reviewed as part of the broader Saccharomyces ferment category in 2024, it is considered non-irritating and safe for use even at very high concentrations in leave-on moisturizing products.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance precision ingredient that bridges the gap between hydration and structural anti-aging when formulated at active concentrations above 1%.
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References
Sources