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ASPERGILLUS/SACCHAROMYCES/PRUNUS MUME FRUIT/RICE FERMENT LEES EXTRACT.

Valuable / HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

A high-performance bio-fermented complex derived from Japanese Apricot and Sake Kasu (Rice Lees) using a dual-culture fermentation process. It is specifically engineered to target the physiological causes of skin sallowness and structural protein degradation.

anti-glycation agent humectant skin-conditioning agent brightening agent soothing agent

Science

This ingredient utilizes a double fermentation system to release a high concentration of bioactive polyphenols and amino acids. It functions as a potent anti-glycation and anti-carbonylation agent, effectively inhibiting the Maillard reaction which leads to the formation of Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs). By preventing these cross-linked proteins, it protects collagen elasticity and stops the yellowing of the stratum corneum while simultaneously boosting Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs).


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–2%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vivo testing at 1.0% showed a significant reduction in skin yellowness and a 14.2% increase in skin translucency over a 4-week period.
  2. 02 In vitro analysis at 2.0% demonstrated a 45% inhibition of Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs), highlighting its role in collagen preservation.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Ferment extracts are frequently used at 'claim' levels (0.1% or less) for marketing purposes. However, clinical data suggests that a minimum of 1.0% is required to see measurable improvements in skin translucency and anti-yellowing effects.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

The extract is highly stable in aqueous systems but is thermolabile; it must be incorporated during the cooling phase of production (below 40°C) to protect the integrity of the fermented peptides.

Synergies

  • Vitamin C (antioxidant synergy)
  • Niacinamide (enhanced brightening)
  • Hyaluronic Acid (complementary hydration)

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly alkaline environments (pH > 8.0)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While the specific complex is unique, its foundational components (Rice Ferment and Prunus Mume) have a long history of safe use in cosmetics and are listed as humectants in the EU CosIng database.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An essential ingredient for precision brightening, particularly effective for reversing sallow skin tones and protecting collagen from glycation-induced aging.


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