Science
Mechanism of Action
This ferment functions by modulating gene expression for critical skin proteins, specifically upregulating Aquaporin 3 (AQP3) for water transport and Filaggrin (FLG) for moisture retention. It strengthens the physical skin barrier through the stimulation of tight junction proteins like Claudin 1 and Zonula Occludens-1, while simultaneously providing antioxidant protection by neutralizing reactive oxygen species and inhibiting tyrosinase to manage melanin production.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 At 1.25%, the filtrate demonstrates a significant increase in epidermal water content and foundational protein synthesis in keratinocytes.
- 02 A 3.0% concentration facilitates a 71% improvement in AQP3 and a 51% improvement in FLG protein expression, alongside enhanced fibroblast proliferation for anti-aging benefits.
- 03 High-level application at 73.0% provides intensive brightening and barrier support with high biocompatibility.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While this ingredient is effective at levels as low as 1.25%, many formulations include it at 'label claim' percentages (below 0.1%) where it functions merely as a marketing story rather than a functional active.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Maintains excellent stability across standard skincare pH ranges; acts as a natural texturizer to improve formula slip and reduce tackiness.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Glycerin
Safety
Safety Profile
Generally recognized as safe (GRAS) due to its origin from traditional food-grade fermentation processes. High biocompatibility makes it suitable for reactive skin.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptionally versatile fermented active that provides measurable improvements in hydration channels and barrier integrity when used at concentrations above 1.25%.
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References
Sources