Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates via a quadruple-action pathway: it upregulates key hydration markers like Aquaporin 3 and Hyaluronan Synthase 1, stimulates dermal fibroblasts to boost Collagen and Elastin synthesis, inhibits tyrosinase to suppress melanin production, and reinforces the epidermal barrier by increasing junctional proteins such as Filaggrin and Involucrin.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro testing at 1.25% demonstrated a 26.93% increase in epidermal water content via mRNA upregulation of HAS1 and AQP3.
- 02 Keratinocyte models using a 3% concentration showed a 71% improvement in Aquaporin 3 protein expression and a 51% increase in Filaggrin levels.
- 03 Solid-state fermentation processes have been shown to increase tyrosinase inhibition by up to 11.2-fold compared to non-fermented rice counterparts.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its high marketing appeal as a 'fermented' ingredient, it is often included at concentrations below 0.5% for storytelling. However, clinical data suggests a minimum threshold of 1.0% is required to trigger significant biological responses in hydration and barrier repair.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Demonstrates exceptional thermal stability from -25°C to +50°C. It is most stable in slightly acidic environments (pH 5.0–6.0), reflecting its original fermentation conditions.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Vitamin C
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Highly alkaline environments (pH > 8.0) which may denature bioactive peptides
Safety
Safety Profile
Safety is contingent on the use of food-grade Aspergillus species to ensure the absence of aflatoxins.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A highly versatile, science-backed ferment that bridges the gap between deep hydration and advanced brightening for all skin types.
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References
Sources