Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions through enzymatic conversion; Aspergillus molds secrete proteases and amylases that transform rice proteins into Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) precursors like amino acids and peptides. Simultaneously, it converts apple flavonoids into quercetin aglycones—potent antioxidants—while naturally synthesizing Kojic Acid and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (Malic and Lactic) to inhibit tyrosinase activity and refine skin texture.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro analysis confirms significant upregulation of AQP3, Filaggrin, and HAS1 genes, directly increasing epidermal moisture and barrier protein synthesis.
- 02 Fermentation-derived quercetin aglycones demonstrate superior radical scavenging capacity compared to standard non-fermented botanical extracts.
- 03 Bio-assays indicate a measurable reduction in melanin synthesis through the competitive inhibition of tyrosinase.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is a 'ferment filtrate,' brands often list it to claim 'probiotic' benefits while using concentrations below 1% where gene expression for hydration (AQP3/Filaggrin) is statistically negligible.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The filtrate is naturally acidic and may lower formula pH. It is heat-sensitive and must be incorporated during the cooling phase below 40°C to maintain the integrity of bioactive peptides and enzymes.
Synergies
- Niacinamide (enhanced brightening)
- Hyaluronic Acid (complementary hydration pathways)
- Panthenol (barrier reinforcement)
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High heat (>50°C)
- Alkaline environments (pH >8.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
Component parts (Rice, Apple, and Aspergillus ferments) are well-documented for safety in cosmetic applications. It is classified as a non-restricted humectant.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional precision active for multi-depth hydration and oxidative stress protection, provided it is used at concentrations above 1%.
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