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Moumoujus

ASPERGILLUS FERMENT FILTRATE.

Valuable / HUMECTANT

Aspergillus Ferment Filtrate is a bio-derived ingredient resulting from the fermentation of organic matter by Aspergillus fungi. It offers a wide array of skin benefits, enhancing hydration, supporting the skin barrier, promoting gentle exfoliation, and contributing to a brighter, more even skin tone.

Summary

Antioxidant Skin-soothing Moisturizer/Humectant Gentle Exfoliant Skin-brightening Supports Cell Renewal Strengthens Skin Barrier Balances Sebum Production

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ferment filtrate employs multiple mechanisms to benefit the skin. It acts as a humectant, drawing and retaining moisture to fortify the skin's natural barrier and optimize hydration levels. It promotes gentle exfoliation by facilitating the breakdown of keratin within superficial skin cells, thereby aiding in the removal of dead skin and encouraging new cell growth. Its antioxidant properties protect the skin by neutralizing harmful free radicals, mitigating premature aging. Additionally, it contributes to skin brightening and evening skin tone by inhibiting melanogenesis and reducing triggers of discoloration. Research indicates its ability to increase ceramide content and boost Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression, which collectively enhance epidermal water supply and improve the bioavailability of other water-soluble actives. It also exhibits anti-inflammatory effects and helps to balance desquamation.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Recommended usage levels in skincare products for general benefits are typically within 1-3%.
  2. 02 When formulated within a complex (e.g., with Potassium Methoxysalicylate), concentrations of 2-5% have shown benefits in skin lightening, anti-aging, and hydration.
  3. 03 Studies combining ferment filtrates with other active ingredients demonstrated effectiveness comparable to hydroquinone 4% in treating hyperpigmentation, improving skin brightness, and reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It also attenuated sebum production and increased skin barrier-related proteins.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
1%

Given that recommended usage for general benefits begins at 1-3%, concentrations below 1% are unlikely to deliver the comprehensive array of observed benefits, suggesting potential underdosing if included at lower percentages.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Optimal activity occurs within a pH range of 5.5-6.5. However, complexes containing Aspergillus Ferment may demonstrate a broader pH stability of 3.5-7.0. It maintains stability at temperatures up to 80°C.

Synergies

  • Enhances the bioavailability and efficacy of other water-soluble active ingredients by increasing Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression.

Conflicts

  • High-pH ingredients
  • Strong exfoliants

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Insufficient data
Sensitization risk Low

Aspergillus Ferment Filtrate is broadly regulated and generally considered safe for cosmetic use, holding 'low risk' safety ratings from Yujo and EWG. However, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has issued 'Insufficient Data Announcements' for broader categories of yeast-derived ingredients, requesting more specific dermal sensitization data. Individuals with particularly sensitive skin or known fungal allergies should consider a patch test prior to full application to ensure compatibility.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Aspergillus Ferment Filtrate is a valuable multi-functional ingredient, offering significant benefits across skin hydration, barrier integrity, gentle exfoliation, and visibly brighter, more even skin tone, suitable for various skin types.

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