Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions through enzymatic bioconversion, reducing large soy proteins into low-molecular-weight peptides for deeper skin penetration. It actively upregulates Hyaluronic Acid (HA) levels by inhibiting the hyaluronidase enzyme (HYAL2) while stimulating HA synthase (HAS) and Glycosaminoglycan (GAG) production; additionally, it provides a brightening effect by inhibiting tyrosinase activity to modulate melanin synthesis.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Human clinical trials utilizing Corneometer CM825 measurements confirmed a significant increase in skin hydration on both the face and forearms following application.
- 02 In vitro analysis at 50 µg/ml demonstrated a downregulation of adipogenic genes, suggesting benefits for skin texture refinement.
- 03 Standard commercial benchmarking identifies 1.0% to 10.0% as the effective range for barrier repair and hydration in high-potency essences.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While often used as a primary base in 'First Essences' at high percentages, concentrations below 1.0% in barrier-repair claims may be insufficient to trigger the metabolic upregulation of Hyaluronic Acid and GAGs.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Thermolabile; must be incorporated during the cooling phase below 40°C to ensure the integrity of bioactive peptides and enzymes.
Synergies
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Barley Ferment Filtrate
Conflicts
- High heat (>60°C)
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
The 2% CIR reference specifically pertains to sensitization data for seed extracts; however, fermented filtrates are frequently used at much higher levels in aqueous formulations without adverse effects.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance fermentation active that bridges the gap between deep hydration and enzymatic skin brightening with an excellent safety profile for all skin types.
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References
Sources