Science
Mechanism of Action
The ingredient, commonly referred to as Fermented Angelica tenuissima (FAT), operates via multiple pathways to enhance skin health. It exhibits anti-photoaging potential by stimulating the synthesis and secretion of procollagen Type-1, while concurrently inhibiting matrix-degrading enzymes such as MMP-1 and elastase. FAT fortifies the skin's natural barrier by upregulating key structural components including filaggrin, involucrin, loricurin, and SPTLC1, which supports moisture retention and resilience. Its anti-inflammatory capabilities are demonstrated by suppressing the secretion of inflammatory chemokine TARC and reducing pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α) and nitric oxide production. Furthermore, it attenuates UVB-induced inflammatory responses by boosting photo-protective hemeoxygenase-1 and inhibiting proinflammatory cyclooxygenase-2. The ingredient also functions as an antioxidant, promoting endogenous antioxidant enzymes and neutralizing harmful free radicals, and delivers anti-melanogenic effects by inhibiting melanin production and tyrosinase activity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated no significant cytotoxic or cell proliferative effects on human foreskin fibroblasts (Hs68) or human keratinocytes (HaCaT) across concentrations ranging from 125–1000 μg/mL in vitro.
- 02 Effectively inhibited melanin production and tyrosinase activity in B16F10 melanocytes in vitro, with the inhibitory effect significantly enhanced by fermentation (efficacy noted for the unfermented extract above 250 μg/mL).
- 03 Exhibited anti-photoaging potential by upregulating procollagen Type-1 synthesis and secretion, and concurrently suppressing MMP-1 and elastase expression in HaCaT and Hs68 skin cells in vitro.
- 04 Improved skin barrier function by upregulating the expression of critical barrier components (filaggrin, involucrin, loricurin, SPTLC1) and inhibiting inflammatory chemokine TARC secretion in HaCaT cells in vitro.
- 05 Attenuated inflammatory responses, including suppression of pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α) and nitric oxide production in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells in vitro, and reduced UVB-induced inflammation via upregulation of photo-protective hemeoxygenase-1 and suppression of proinflammatory cyclooxygenase-2 expression.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Safety
Safety Profile
While a direct safety assessment from CIR, SCCS, or FDA specifically for ASPERGILLUS/ANGELICA TENUISSIMA ROOT EXTRACT FERMENT FILTRATE is not yet available, in vitro studies have shown no significant cytotoxic or cell proliferative effects at concentrations up to 1000 μg/mL. General 'Aspergillus Ferment Extract Filtrate' is widely considered safe and approved for cosmetic use, with a low incidence of potential side effects; however, individual allergic reactions are always possible.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This fermented botanical extract is a valuable multi-active ingredient, offering significant anti-aging, barrier-strengthening, anti-inflammatory, and brightening benefits across various skin types based on robust in vitro evidence.
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References
Sources