Science
Mechanism of Action
This advanced ingredient operates by forming a 'sandwich' structure on the skin's surface; a water-bearing hyaluronic acid film enhances stratum corneum hydration and facilitates the targeted delivery of Vitamin C into the dermis. It actively promotes collagen production, enhances skin's immune function, and functions as a robust antioxidant. A significant mechanism involves its role in skin brightening through the effective inhibition of melanin production and tyrosinase activity. Ascorbyl Hyaluronate also substantially improves the stability of Vitamin C against degradation from oxidation, light, and heat, ensuring sustained efficacy. Furthermore, it aids in reducing inflammatory cytokine expression and boosts Type 1 collagen production, thereby strengthening the skin barrier and supporting actin filament development. Once within the epidermal layer, the active Ascorbic Acid component is selectively released by naturally abundant skin esterases.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 Significant skin whitening results were observed after 8 weeks of use at a 0.01% concentration in a study involving 30 healthy Asian female volunteers aged 40-57 years.
- 02 In vitro studies showed that concentrations between 10-200 µg/mL effectively inhibit melanin pigmentation and tyrosinase activity. Specifically, 100 µg/mL demonstrated 80.70% inhibition of melanin pigmentation with no observed cytotoxicity.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Ascorbyl Hyaluronate notably enhances the stability of Vitamin C, offering protection against oxidation, light, and heat, factors that typically destabilize pure Vitamin C. It should be incorporated into the water phase during formulation. To preserve its integrity, mixing temperatures should not exceed 60°C, and prolonged heat exposure above 40°C should be avoided. For extended shelf life, refrigeration between 5-15°C and protection from light are recommended, ensuring stability for at least 2 years.
Safety
Safety Profile
Studies on Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate at 100 µg/mL (containing 15 µg/mL of Ascorbic Acid) demonstrated no cytotoxicity and showed an increase in cell proliferation in a dose-dependent manner. The individual components of Ascorbyl Hyaluronate, namely hyaluronates and Ascorbic Acid/Ascorbates, have been independently reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) and deemed safe for use in cosmetics.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Ascorbyl Hyaluronate is a valuable ingredient, effectively delivering stabilized Vitamin C for brightening, anti-aging, and moisturizing benefits across all skin types while enhancing product stability.
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References
Sources