Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a highly stable Vitamin C derivative, utilizing a polypeptide structure as an efficient delivery system. This system ensures that the active Vitamin C component remains potent and reaches deeper epidermal layers before oxidation, thereby maximizing its efficacy. Mechanistically, it neutralizes free radicals, mitigating oxidative stress-induced damage. It actively stimulates endogenous collagen synthesis, which is crucial for maintaining skin structural integrity and elasticity. Furthermore, it modulates melanin production to reduce hyperpigmentation and promote a more uniform skin tone. The incorporated peptide elements signal the skin to enhance its natural repair processes, contributing to a fortified skin barrier, accelerated cellular turnover, and improved epidermal hydration.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Recommended concentration range of 5-20% for achieving visible improvements in skin brightening, anti-aging, and epidermal repair.
- 02 Stabilized Ascorbyl Pentapeptide (SAP), an ascorbic acid-peptide conjugate, demonstrated collagen biosynthesis stimulation comparable to L-ascorbic acid at 1-10 uM concentrations in human dermal fibroblasts. At a higher concentration of 100 uM, SAP increased collagen biosynthesis by over 100% compared to L-ascorbic acid.
- 03 A related ascorbic acid polypeptide derivative (EAC-L-carnosine) at 24.25 μm reduced melanin secretion by 27.85% in in-vitro cell experiments.
- 04 A formulation featuring 10% natural Vitamin C combined with biopeptides (rice and lupin) showed enhanced cellular turnover across three clinical studies involving 32 female participants.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide exhibits superior stability compared to pure ascorbic acid, showing increased resilience against degradation and prolonged retention of potency. Its polypeptide conjugation technology safeguards its effectiveness by resisting oxidation. Optimal stability is achieved within a mildly acidic to slightly neutral pH range (4.0-7.0), which preserves both the Vitamin C component's activity and the peptide's structural integrity. Storage in dark, airtight containers is advised to further maintain its efficacy.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed Ascorbic Acid and its derivatives, including ascorbates, safe for use in cosmetic products, with a reported maximum concentration of 17% for Ascorbic Acid in skin fresheners. While a specific CIR assessment for 'Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide' was not explicitly found, this ingredient is generally considered safe for topical application due to its favorable safety profile. It is well-tolerated and typically less irritating than pure ascorbic acid, making it suitable for sensitive skin. It is also an approved edible additive in the food industry. Nevertheless, individual sensitivities or allergic responses are possible, and therefore, preliminary patch testing is recommended.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide is a valuable, highly stable Vitamin C derivative, offering significant anti-aging, brightening, and antioxidant benefits with enhanced skin compatibility, making it suitable for a broad range of skin types and formulations.
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References
Sources