Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through a dual-action pathway: it inhibits matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1 and MMP-3) to prevent the enzymatic degradation of the dermal matrix while simultaneously downregulating the PKA/CREB pathway and tyrosinase activity to modulate melanin production. Its dense antioxidant profile neutralizes UV-induced free radicals, effectively preventing oxidative stress-related aging.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.5%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated significant inhibition of collagen-degrading enzymes and upregulation of COL1A1 (Type I Collagen) transcription in human dermal fibroblasts at 0.1% concentration.
- 02 Optimized callus cultures showed potent anti-melanogenesis effects through the downregulation of pigment-producing pathways.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is a 'stem cell' extract, brands often include it at trace amounts for marketing claims. However, clinical data suggests that a minimum of 0.1% is required to trigger collagen synthesis and provide measurable antioxidant protection.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly sensitive to pH; bio-activity and color (red/purple) are best maintained in acidic environments between pH 3.0 and 4.0. Exposure to neutral or alkaline pH can cause the extract to shift to blue/green and degrade.
Synergies
- Ascorbic Acid
- Ferulic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Sunscreen UV filters
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Metal ions (Iron/Copper)
- High pH alkaline ingredients
Safety
Safety Profile
Recognized in the EU CosIng inventory as safe for topical use; no restrictive concentration limits have been established for this botanical extract.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An elite botanical antioxidant that offers sophisticated collagen protection and pigment regulation, provided it is formulated in an acidic environment.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…