Science
Mechanism of Action
This polypeptide operates through a dual-action mechanism to combat signs of aging. Primarily, it induces a potent relaxing effect on facial muscles by blocking the NaV1.4 pathway, which controls the influx of Na+ ions into muscle fibers. This inhibition prevents the formation of the platelet end potential, thereby modulating muscle contractions and leading to rapid wrinkle smoothing. Concurrently, it stimulates the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) by promoting the production and deposition of crucial structural components, including Collagen I, III, V, glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), and proteoglycan Decorin. It also acts as a 'sugar trap' to prevent undesirable collagen cross-linking caused by excess sugars, and reduces the activity of MMP-1, an enzyme responsible for collagen degradation. This comprehensive action preserves dermal structure, encourages regeneration, and supports natural collagen and elastin for a more youthful skin appearance.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.003%
Key findings
- 01 In a clinical study, application to the eye contour area significantly reduced skin roughness and wrinkle depth, achieving an average wrinkle reduction of 30.67% within just 15 minutes. The average wrinkle score improved from 9.39 to 4.49.
- 02 At a lower concentration, the polypeptide demonstrated a 23.97% reduction in wrinkles.
- 03 Even at a minimal concentration, a 23.30% reduction in wrinkles was observed.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Data provided does not indicate this ingredient is commonly 'dusted' at sub-efficacious percentages. Clinical studies report significant efficacy at very low concentrations, suggesting even small amounts are active.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Being a hydrophilic peptide, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide readily dissolves in aqueous solutions. To maintain its integrity and efficacy, it is generally recommended to formulate within a pH range of 6.5 to 7.4. Extreme pH values, particularly below 5.0 or above 6.5, have been noted to potentially lead to peptide fragmentation and instability in related peptide formulations. Studies on its anti-glycation effects were conducted at a physiological pH of 7.4.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed alpha-amino acids, including arginine and lysine from which this polypeptide is derived, as safe for cosmetic use. As a multi-peptide originating from these naturally occurring, skin-friendly amino acids, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide is broadly considered safe and non-irritating. It is not listed on EWG's Skin Deep Restricted or Unacceptable Lists. While there is no specific SCCS opinion or explicit FDA cosmetic approval for this exact polypeptide, its amino acid constituents are part of FDA-approved drugs for other applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
ARGININE/LYSINE POLYPEPTIDE is an essential anti-aging ingredient, delivering both immediate wrinkle relaxation and long-term dermal regeneration, supported by compelling clinical data and a favorable safety profile across all skin types.
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References
Sources