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Moumoujus

AQUILARIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT.

Valuable / ANTIOXIDANT, SKIN PROTECTING

Derived from the leaves of the precious Agarwood tree, this botanical powerhouse serves as a multi-functional bioactive agent in precision skincare. It bridges the gap between traditional wisdom and modern dermatology by offering significant calming, defensive, and clarifying benefits for stressed complexions.

Summary

Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory Antimicrobial Skin conditioning Brightening

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract operates through a multi-pathway approach: it utilizes high concentrations of mangiferin and luteolin to neutralize free radicals, inhibits the production of nitric oxide and pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1α, IL-8) to reduce skin stress, and physically disrupts the cell walls of acne-linked bacteria like S. epidermidis. Furthermore, it modulates pigment production by inhibiting tyrosinase activity.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.008–1.6%
Optimal

0.125%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated potent anti-inflammatory action by inhibiting nitric oxide levels in cellular models at concentrations as low as 0.008%.
  2. 02 Reached Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) against S. epidermidis at 0.125%, with structural bacterial rupture observed at higher dosages.
  3. 03 Showed dose-dependent protection against protein denaturation, suggesting a significant role in preventing inflammatory tissue damage between 0.04% and 1.6%.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.01%
Red flag below
0.005%

Because of the high cost and rarity associated with Agarwood (Aquilaria), many brands 'label dust' this ingredient at negligible levels. While anti-inflammatory signaling begins at 0.008%, concentrations below 0.1% are unlikely to provide the full antimicrobial or brightening benefits observed in research.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

The extract contains both water-soluble flavonoids and oil-soluble sterols; stability is best maintained in slightly acidic environments. Formulations must avoid high alkalinity to prevent the degradation of its polyphenolic profile.

Synergies

  • Glycerin
  • Niacinamide
  • Antioxidant vitamins

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Formulas with pH > 8.0

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While not yet formally reviewed by the CIR, it is documented in the EU CosIng database and has a long history of safe use in Traditional Chinese Medicine with low toxicity profiles.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A high-performance botanical extract that provides targeted antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory support, making it an excellent choice for stabilizing reactive or blemish-prone skin.

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