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AQUILARIA CRASSNA STEM OIL.

Valuable / FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING

Commonly known as Agarwood or Oud oil, this rare botanical extract serves as a multifunctional lipid in precision skincare. It bridges the gap between high-end perfumery and clinical therapeutics, offering robust antimicrobial protection alongside deep emollient properties.

Antimicrobial Antioxidant Emollient Fragrance

Science

This oil functions through a dual-action pathway: it physically disrupts the integrity of bacterial cell walls—specifically targeting acne-linked strains like S. epidermidis—while simultaneously providing antioxidant protection by neutralizing DPPH free radicals. Its lipid profile allows it to act as an emollient that enhances skin barrier moisture and potentially modulates GABAA receptors to induce a localized calming effect.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.2–1%
Optimal

0.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated significant inhibition of S. epidermidis biofilm formation and cell wall distortion at 0.2% concentration (Molecules, 2018).
  2. 02 Observed antimicrobial efficacy against S. aureus and C. albicans at concentrations of 2 mg/mL (ThaiJO, 2018).
  3. 03 Identified free radical scavenging capacity with an SC50 threshold of 10 mg/mL (PMC, 2018).

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.2%
Red flag below
0.05%

Due to its extreme cost and status as a luxury fragrance, many brands include it at 'trace' levels (under 0.05%) for marketing claims. However, clinical data suggests a minimum of 0.2% is required to achieve its documented antimicrobial benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Thermally sensitive; must be incorporated during the cooling phase (below 80°C) to prevent oxidation of volatile compounds.

Synergies

  • Vitamin E
  • Non-comedogenic carrier oils
  • Soothing botanical extracts

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High-heat manufacturing processes

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
1%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While not formally reviewed by the CIR, it is regulated by IFRA standards for fragrance materials. Oral toxicity is very low (LD50 >2000 mg/kg).


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-performance luxury lipid that provides scientifically-backed antimicrobial and antioxidant benefits when formulated at active concentrations.


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