Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract functions as a multi-pathway antioxidant, utilizing flavonoids like hyperoside and rutin to neutralize reactive oxygen species. At a cellular level, it regulates the AMPK/mTOR/ULK1 pathway to maintain homeostasis and specifically inhibits the enzymatic breakdown of Type XVII Collagen (COL17A1), a critical protein for anchoring epidermal stem cells and preventing chronological aging.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated significant protection against oxidative apoptosis by enhancing cellular autophagy mechanisms.
- 02 Patent-supported evidence shows inhibition of COL17A1 degradation, essential for follicle and skin stem cell maintenance.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is often marketed as a high-potency 'traditional' extract, it is frequently included in formulas at symbolic concentrations (<0.1%) where it functions only as a claim ingredient rather than a collagen stabilizer.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Maintains high stability in Oil-in-Water emulsions when used above 1%; sensitive to high alkaline environments which can degrade active flavonoids.
Synergies
- Ascorbic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High pH formulations (>8.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
While CIR has not formally reviewed it for cosmetics, it holds FDA GRAS status for ingestion, suggesting a high safety profile for topical application.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An emerging precision ingredient essential for protecting the skin’s basement membrane and collagen architecture from oxidative decay.
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References
Sources