Science
Mechanism of Action
The extract operates through three primary pathways: it neutralizes reactive oxygen species (ROS) via phenolic compounds and vitamins A, C, and E; it disrupts bacterial cell membranes using flavonoids and tannins; and it stimulates the up-regulation of Cytokeratin-17 (CK-17), a protein essential for keratinocyte migration and rapid re-epithelialization during the skin's healing phase.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 In vivo research demonstrated that a 0.2% concentration significantly accelerated fibroblast proliferation and re-epithelialization in compromised skin models.
- 02 Studies on rinse-off formulations confirmed that a 10% concentration provides potent antibacterial activity against S. aureus, while higher concentrations (up to 75%) are utilized for maximum microbial inhibition.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
This ingredient is frequently included in botanical 'complexes' where its individual concentration falls below 0.1%, rendering it a label claim rather than a functional active. For therapeutic benefits in barrier repair, a minimum concentration of 0.2% is required.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly sensitive to oxidation and alkaline environments (pH > 7.0), which can cause the extract to undergo browning. It requires a hydro-glycolic solvent system to maintain the solubility of its active flavones.
Synergies
- Ferulic Acid
- Vitamin E
- Vitamin C
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
While prohibited in the EU specifically for hair dye applications due to pigment-specific genotoxicity concerns, it is classified as safe and permitted for use in general leave-on and rinse-off skincare.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An excellent multi-functional botanical for anti-inflammatory and repair-focused formulas, provided it is stabilized with antioxidants and used at concentrations above 0.2%.
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