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ANTIDESMA VELUTINOSUM FRUIT EXTRACT.

Valuable / ANTIOXIDANT, HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

A potent botanical antioxidant derived from Southeast Asian Maoberries, recognized for its dual-action ability to brighten skin and provide cellular defense. This nutrient-dense extract utilizes a complex profile of anthocyanins and phytosterols to correct hyperpigmentation while maintaining the skin's moisture barrier.

Antioxidant Skin Brightening Humectant Anti-inflammatory Conditioning Agent

Science

Functions primarily by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, effectively disrupting the pathway that leads to dark spots. Additionally, it acts as a scavenger of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and downregulates pro-inflammatory markers like COX-2 and PGE2 to mitigate damage caused by UVB exposure.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.0025–0.01%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated measurable reduction in melanin index and tyrosinase activity in herbal cream formulations.
  2. 02 In vitro studies at 25-100 µg/mL showed significant recovery of cell viability following ultraviolet stress.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.1%

As a rare botanical, it is frequently used at 'label claim' levels (below 0.1%). To achieve the tyrosinase inhibition and antioxidant recovery seen in research, it should be present at higher concentrations in a pH-stabilized formula.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 3.5 – 5.5
0 7 14

Stability

Extremely sensitive to pH levels; bioactive anthocyanins remain stable and pigmented in acidic environments (pH 2-5) but degrade and lose efficacy in neutral or alkaline conditions (pH 7-8).

Synergies

  • L-Ascorbic Acid (shared acidic pH requirement)
  • Tocopherol
  • Ferulic Acid

Conflicts

  • Alkaline ingredients
  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Direct UV exposure (requires opaque packaging)

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Widely consumed as a food source in Southeast Asia; topical application is considered safe and non-irritating for all skin types when formulated correctly.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An excellent multi-functional botanical for brightening and protection, provided the formulation maintains an acidic pH to preserve its bioactive compounds.


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